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‘Songket has a soul’: How one woman turned heritage fabric into a thriving handbag brand

KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 24 — Nurul Wahidah Mustafa was only four years old when she started making pencil cases from fabric scraps.

Today, through her brand ‘Karya Songket’, she designs clutches and handbags from songket that have attracted customers from Singapore and Brunei, along with prominent figures and members of royalty.

“I began designing and sewing pencil cases from fabric scraps as gifts for friends when I was only four. Some even ordered phone pouches, pillow cases and other items to support my hobby back then,” Nurul Wahidah, 35, told Bernama.

(Songket is a traditional handwoven fabric belonging to the brocade group of textiles.)

The uniqueness of the handbags crafted by Nurul Wahidah lies in the blend of modern techniques with designs that appeal to the younger generation. This is achieved by carefully considering customer feedback and preferences, especially in terms of colour and style, to ensure her products remain relevant and sought after.

Beyond being fashion accessories, her songket handbags have also been chosen as official souvenirs by several organisations, representing Malaysia’s cultural heritage on the global stage.

A songket handbag under the ‘Karya Songket’ brand, which have gained popularity in Singapore, Brunei and among dignitaries and royalty, Kuala Selangor Aug 24, 2025. — Bernama pic

A journey with songket

Nurul Wahidah, who has a degree in tourism management from Universiti Utara Malaysia, said she had worked as a lecturer for a year, but realised that her true calling was in craft making.

“In the beginning, I struggled to find a job related to my qualification, so I turned to making handbags from cotton and batik fabric and tried selling them online.

“In 2018, one of my customers suggested that I make handbags using songket since they were rare in the market. I tried making one from an old sampin at home, and surprisingly, it attracted more customers,” she recalled.

She also said producing fully handmade handbags is challenging as it requires perseverance, technical skills and design knowledge, as well as a great deal of patience as the process of making one can be lengthy.

“Songket is a delicate fabric. It wrinkles easily and cannot be folded carelessly. So I learned the proper techniques through videos and online groups, and through knowledge shared by other bag makers,” she said, adding that her crafts are made from commercial songket fabrics available at textile shops.

Songket handbag entrepreneur Nurul Wahidah Mustafa, 35, stitching a Karya Songket handbag during an interview at her home in Kuala Selangor Aug 24, 2025. — Bernama pic

Keeping tradition alive

Although still operating alone from home on a small scale, Nurul Wahidah hopes to one day open her own workshop and share her skills with the community, particularly women who wish to generate income through sewing.

Priced between RM79 and RM199 each, her elegant accessories are produced in limited quantities, averaging around 50 handbags a month, and are sold exclusively online.

“Songket has a soul. When you carry a songket handbag, it stands out even with simple clothing. It carries our identity as a nation with art, history and values,” the songket enthusiast said.

A songket handbag under the ‘Karya Songket’ brand, well-received in Singapore, Brunei and among dignitaries and royalty, Kuala Selangor, Aug 24, 2025. — Bernama pic

For her, songket is not just a heritage textile but also a platform for expression, innovation and national identity.

Her songket crafts are her commitment to keeping this traditional textile art alive and recognised by future generations.— Bernama